© 1998-2005 by Lise Hull
Britain is strewn with castles of every conceivable size, shape and condition. Many are still occupied. Many more persist in dramatic ruin, some clinging to craggy hilltops, others resting quietly in a farmer's field. Each has an individual personality, an energy that transcends time and the effects of Nature. They are enduring relics of a past that shaped the modern world. Each has a story to tell. Even though the stones are crumbling with age, the spirits of the people who lived and died in their shadows continue to enliven the ruins.
Incredibly, Britain contains several thousand castles, most of which were built in the 11th through 15th centuries. Virtually every town, even small villages, have their identifying castle. The Castles of Britain web site is the perfect place to begin a tour of Britain's great castles. There you will find listings of most of the castles in England, Scotland and Wales, and all sorts of castle-related information.
London's Heathrow Airport is the ideal starting point for most travelers touring Great Britain. Indeed, an enchanting castle tour can be started not too far west of the airport. Windsor Castle dates to the 11th century, yet remains in almost perfect condition. That the queen still resides here part of the year probably has a lot to do with its splendid condition.
Tours of the lavish State Apartments are offered on a regular basis, except when Queen Elizabeth is in residence. In many ways, Windsor Castle is the consummate medieval fortress. Fortunately, the horrendous fire that destroyed parts of the royal apartments in the early 1990's did not mar the overall grandeur of Windsor. The damaged chambers have been restored to their original splendor.
Continuing west on the M4 motorway, you head toward Wales, considered by many scholars to be the "Land of Castles." Just across the formidable Severn Bridge, you drive into an area rich in castles. First, stop at Chepstow Castle , one of Britain's oldest castles. Dating to about 1068 (only two years after William of Normandy conquered Britain), this castle dominates the River Wye and slinks up the side of the limestone ridge on which it was constructed.
A bit farther west, Caldicot Castle stands in majestic solitude, an outstanding example of a Norman-built "motte" castle (erected with earth and timber) and later transformed into a stone masterpiece. The present owners of this fine castle provide visitors with an interesting, self-guided audio tour and, on some evenings, offer medieval banquets!
Close to Caldicot Castle, you might want to spend the night at another authentic medieval castle. Penhow Castle has been lovingly and accurately restored by Stephen Weeks, and claims to be the oldest lived-in castle in Wales. While Penhow Castle has few of the traditional features that we associate with fortresses, like massive towers or gatehouses, it does retain the essence of what life would have been like for members of a medieval nobleman's household.
While visiting these castles, consider taking a detour into Roman Wales. Caerleon and Caerwent, both of which are no more than 5 miles from Penhow, are two of Britain's most impressive Roman sites. Caerleon, in particular, is worth a side trip. The former Roman legionary fortress still includes an almost intact amphitheater and the fortress baths, among other treasures.
North of Caerleon is the formidable fortress known as Raglan Castle. Raglan's builders created the ideal combination of residence and fortress into a castle that is a visual marvel. Embellished by the Earls of Somerset, Raglan Castle contains massive defenses, including the grand gatehouse, and also lovely carvings, like the heraldic shield that still overlooks the empty great hall. The Yellow Tower of Gwent, Raglan's powerful great keep, was so sturdy that it survived intensive battering and deliberate efforts to pull down the tower after the castle's final surrender to English forces led by Oliver Cromwell.
East of Raglan Castle, you soon pass through historic Monmouth, with its extensively ruined castle somewhat hidden off the main road. But, as the birthplace of Henry Bolingbroke, the future King Henry IV, Monmouth Castle is worth a look.
Crossing once again into England, the next castle to explore is mighty Goodrich. Nestled in the lush Forest of Dean, 12th century Goodrich Castle is a grand sight, with its enormous corner towers camouflaging the huge great keep and the deep rock-cut dry moat dramatically barricading unwanted access. Fortunately for us, the drawbridge always remains open!
Now, the castle tour heads back toward London, but you still have a few stops before you board that plane back home! Berkeley Castle has a lengthy and tumultuous history. Amazingly, it has survived virtually unscathed, and is still occupied by descendants of the first Berkeleys who gained possession of the castle in the 12th century. Berkeley's most grisly claim to fame is as the prison of the deposed King Edward II. When Edward II did not succumb to the toxic fumes wafting up from the pit prison in his room, his loving queen, Isabella, directed her henchmen to skewer her husband!
Next, consider staying in one of England's premier castle hotels. Possibly, the last true castle built in Britain, Thornbury Castle dates to the early 1500's, and was built by the Duke of Buckingham. After his arrest by Henry VIII, the castle became a royal residence. Today, it is a showpiece of luxury, offering fine accommodation and excellent dining.
Last, and certainly not least, end your tour inside the walls of the legendary Tower of London. History, ghosts, the Beefeaters and the Crown Jewels await visitors to this spectacular fortress. Dating to the Norman Conquest, the striking White Tower sits squarely inside the towered curtain wall. It is the classic medieval keep. The Tower of London was the prison for royals and other unfortunates, and it was here that Queens Anne Boleyn and Katharine Howard lost their heads. You can still see the executioner's block! Watch for the ravens - legends say that if they disappear from the castle, Great Britain will fall.
